Gas Installation Part 3. Regulator and Connections

With the gas tank finally hung under the driver side chassis, and the fill point fitted to the column behind the drivers door, the next job was to connect everything up.

Here’s the layout:

Connecting up the gas appliances, (not showing the inlet and outlet for the propex heater)

We originally bought a filter that is supposed to go between the gas tank and the regulator. It screws directly to the tank ‘out’ valve in the air box on the LPG tank. The idea is that it catches oil/ water vapour/ crud in the tank? (Gasit were extremely vague about this) and when I finally called them because I couldn’t actually fit this filter to the tank because of the exit points from the air box are so tight around it that I wouldn’t be able to tighten the joints, plus there was no way of supporting it and it’s quite heavy so would jiggle around a LOT he implied that it was a bit unnecessary anyway so I sent it back.

Fill point to tank

Connecting the fill point to the tank was straight forwards. This is a steel braid coated pigtail with female ends.

Tank to regulator

The tank outlet is connected to the regulator which is bolted to the bottom of the van floor. This is also via steel braided pigtail.

Regulator to manifold

From the 8mm compression fitting of the regulator,  a PVC coated copper pipe (8mm) is run through a hole in the floor to a manifold which is supposed to be in an accessible place inside the van. Each appliance can be isolated here if there are any problems. We got a 3-way manifold  (about £22 from Rainbow conversions) in case we get a water heater in the future. For now the third outlet is blanked off.

Here is an ‘under the van picture’

Underneath the drivers side of the vann

Drop out valves

There also needs to be a drop-out valve (gas is heavier than air so it sinks down and out of the hole in the floor) in case of a leak. We put one in the cupboard where the heater and hob are, and another where the manifold is.

The hole I drilled for the drop out valves wasn’t quite big enough and the two parts of the valve don’t fit together all the way through the floor so it sticks out at the bottom. I sealed around these holes and the hole for the copper pipe with silicone.

The hob

This is from Dometic. It has 2 burners and a glass lid. We have now used this for a couple of months.


  • Seems to work well.
  • The big burner is enough to get a 24cm frying pan really hot.
  • The small burner turns low enough for a gentle simmer.
  • The pot supports are sturdy, and can be removed for cleaning (although one little rubber bungs that holds the feet of the pot support in has already come out and so doesn’t  support the pot stand fully. And would leak if there was an over boiling pot).
  • It was relatively easy to fit although it didn’t come with a template for cutting the hole in the work surface.
  • When the lid is down, it provides extra worktop space.


  • The glass lid feels horrible and is noisy- I would like to replace it with a nicer material.
  • It is really fiddly to clean and the knobs are tucked away in a dip which collects crud and grease.

Propex heater

This is the 2000 HS model with 1 outlet for heated air.

It comes with a handy template because you have to drill holes in the floor of the van. One hole for the air inlet  to the combustion chamber and another for the flue for the combustion products. This means that unlike a lot of gas heaters (or using your gas hob to heat the van), the water produced by burning the gas ends up outside so reducing condensation.

Air from inside your van is taken in to the heater by vents in the cupboard that you put the heater in and is circulated by a fan over the heater and then blown out back into your living space via a big cardboard tube via another vent (swivelling) in your cupboard. These vents and this process is completely separate from the combustion part of the heater

The heater itself is also screwed to the floor.

Here is a picture of our heater before we built the cupboard around it.

Propex heater with air inlet and hot air outlet taped up (temporarily)

It also needs a power source and then the thermostat and control knob are connected via a fairly long cable so you have a bit of flexibility where you can mount the thermostat.

So all in all the heater is a palaver to fit- you need to consider many things:

  1. The position of the cupboard or floor space it is in because of the vents through the floor and where they emerge under the chassis.
  2. The passage of the gas pipe (8mm) from the manifold.
  3. The power cables from the fuse box cannot be too long (to avoid a voltage drop)
  4. The position of the thermostat and the cable that runs to it. (Please Propex, make a wireless model)
  5. Lastly, the air intake via vents in the cupboard must be accessible and not easily blocked by furniture or clothing etc and the same goes for the air outlet vents. In our case we had practically no space for the cardboard tube before it reached the vent so it is only about 10cm long.

We’ve used it for a couple of trips now, and while I would not be without a heater, there are a few things we don’t like about this one.


  • It seems to be reliable (so far we’ve used it for a couple of months).
  • It seems to be sturdy and well made.
  • The Propex engineers are extremely helpful and friendly.
  • The fitting instructions are good and clear.
  • The cables and tubes are reasonably generous.
  • You can direct where the hot air goes by swivelling the vent.


  • It is pretty noisy – much louder than we expected – like a domestic fan heater or a bathroom extractor, but it’s in a much smaller space.
  • The fan runs for about 20 seconds before the heater kicks in and for a minute or so after it has switched off.
  • The thermostat seems somewhat insensitive. We have only heated the van up once enough to trigger the thermostat to switch off, and because its so loud we would rather control when it kicks in ourselves, so generally it is switched off until we need it.
  • The thermostat is a big ugly plastic box with horrible ugly knobs.

2017-12-14: Gas installation part 2

So this post was drafted as we nearly came to the end of fitting the gas tank and bits and pieces. We were waiting on an inspection by a gas safe engineer who pressure tested the system with a small amount of gas before we filled it with gas. Of course there was always the possibility that he would take one peek at the set up and condemn it before we even got to the test. As it was, he made a few small changes and also discovered that the whole set up was somewhat leaky and the engineer pretty much redid all the joints. He also pointed out that for about the same price as we had paid for everything in the end, they could have installed an almost identical setup and saved us all the pain. (For the record, that is the Propex engineers in Southampton).

Part 1 finished with us waiting for some special brackets to be made because our Sprinter is apparently unusual in that it is missing an essential bit of steel that the gas tank should have bolted on to. We had an 81cm gap instead of a 55cm gap.

Anyway, at a cost of another £45 two steel angle irons were cut to length, had one side of the angle shaved from 5cm to 4cm and then had holes drilled at appropriate points (twice because I got my mm and cm mixed up and the first lot of holes were 60mm apart, not 60cm)

Then we used the original brackets from  Gasit and bolted these to the outriggers under the van.

Brackets from Gasit bolted to the outriggers as per their suggestion.

As you can see, we had another worry. This time that the exhaust would be venting onto the tank and it’s fittings, and the heat would make us into an IED. So we tried to fashion a  heat shield from sheets of galvanised steel that we got from Wickes ( actually sold as protective door plates I think) which we screwed directly to the main chassis beam that runs the length of the van.

The next job was to fit the angle irons to the red brackets followed by the feet of the gas tank to the angle irons. The problem was that the bolts attaching the angle iron to the bracket and tank closest to the heat shield would no longer be accessible after the second angle iron was in place so we had to fit the tank and one angle iron first, and then somehow squeeze in the second angle iron and the next set of bolts, all in a very awkward space, with the tank supported on a car jack and some paint pots and in sub zero temperatures

The first angle iron is in

You can see that even though we set the tank as close to the main chassis beam as we could, there was still barely enough room to manoeuvre and also very little space to access the airbox (where the tank in and out valves are housed)

You can also see that the underbody seal stuff just rubs off the tank. It stayed pretty sticky for about 2 weeks after spraying it on which made the whole job even more unpleasant. It’s like tar.

Once the tank was secured we drilled the hole for the fill point in the pillar behind the driver door. This is hollow and has a handy rubbery bung underneath to allow access into the pillar.

Hole drilled for the fill point behind the drivers door.

I had ordered an angled fill point, but a straight one probably would have been better.

View looking up into the hollow pillar at the fitted fillpoint.

We fitted a 75cm angled fill hose to this fillpoint and fed it through a hole drilled through the side of the pillar which you can just see in this picture. I was worried that the hose would chafe so glued in a bit a plastic drainpipe to this hole to guide the fill pipe round the corner. 75cm was only just long enough. A longer fill pipe would have been better here, but this bit was a breeze compared to fitting the tank.

The fillpoint looks fine from the outside too

Fitted fillpoint

As it turns out, You are not supposed to fit these things in this orientation. The gas safe man ended up turning it around 90 degrees so that the cap ends up horizontal.

Part 3 will detail fitting the regulator and propex heater.


2018-09-21 Finished the dog bed

I wrote a while back about prototyping the dog bed. We tested it out – it seemed pretty solid, and Loki was happy to climb up there – so I went ahead and built it out of better materials.

It consists of 3 main parts:

  • A 60 cm x 80 cm Eurocrate plastic box, that we plan to use for washing – as a kind of mini bathtub
  • A 30 cm extension, to make the total width more like 110 cm – enough for the dog to be able to lie down comfortably in a few positions
  • A sliding wall that is sandwiched between the dog bed and the Eurocrate, which can be pushed back to allow him easy access, and pulled across to give him some protection while we’re driving. The wall has a gap at one end to allow him to hang his head off the side, which is one of his favourite ways to lie.

The two boxes both have removable lids made from plywood, and on top of these are two foam cushions with removable fleece covers.

We wanted to make something modular and flexible, but also safe and comfortable for Loki. So all the boxes are bolted to the wooden bulkhead so that they are secure when Loki gets in or out and as the van is in motion. But if we want to, we can unbolt them, and take the little extension off and use it as a seat, or take the Eurocrate outside to use for washing, as a seat or table.

So far, I think we’ve got a big thumbs up from Loki.

2017-10-29: Recognisable furniture

Some things in the van that look a bit like furniture!

This weekend, we’ve made some satisfying progress in the van, with a few new things going in that make it look a lot more like a home.

The two base units that form the support for the bed are largely complete, bar a few doors. That means we have a functioning bed, a bench seat, and some fixed storage too.

We ordered some foam for the mattress, which we’ve chopped up and covered in stockinette (a stretchy, loosely-woven lining that protects the foam and helps a mattress cover slide over it).

Amy sewing stockinette linings over the foam mattress sections

We also ordered some table legs, and we’ve been trying out different methods for supporting the table top, and making the conversion from bed to bench + table manageable.

And we also have one more piece of finished furniture installed – the overhead cabinets on the passenger side (above the bench), made out of birch ply, with doors supported on gas struts, and a felt lining on the inside of the cabinet.

The gas struts hold the cabinet doors both open and closed, which means no need for latches.

In a way, the van looks quite similar to the state it was in back in August, but this is one iteration on, with mistakes corrected for, some lessons learned and everything that much more well-considered.

2017-10-19: Overhead shelf in the cab

One of the first jobs we did after we bought the van was to remove the bulkhead. We toyed with the idea of joining the cab area to the back of the van by installing swivel seats, but that’s an expensive conversion, and we liked the idea of having what amounts to a separate room in the cab. Our current plan is to have a ‘soft divide’ – likely some kind of insulating curtain, that we can draw across behind the seats, and otherwise leave the cab pretty much standard.

However, there’s a lot of vertical space above the seats that we wanted to make use of, so we fitted a shelf, faced with a wall at the back that forms a partial bulkhead above our heads.

Shelf as seen from the back of the van, with stuff holes for duvets and pillows

The shelf is made from 9mm hardwood ply, and it’s supported at the front and sides on oak battens, which are bolted onto existing attachment points on the cab body.

We used oak because these supporting battens have to take a significant weight, and softwood wouldn’t be up to the task. Also, we knew the frame would be visible, so we wanted something that looked good. Fortunately, the particular plywood we’re using here, while not the high-grade birch ply, does have one nice face, which matches the oak quite well.

Oak support frame underneath the shelf

The shelf is supported by the back by the partial bulkhead, made of 12mm birch ply, which itself hangs from bolts rivnutted to the frame of the van.

We intend to use this area to stuff in bedding when our bed is not in use, so the large cavernous space is idea. We don’t need to worry about things rolling about, and all we had to do to provide access was cut a couple of large stuff holes, with rounded edges (using a roundover bit on the router).

On the passenger side, we also mounted our MT-50 solar controller monitor, which gives us some live info on the state of the battery, power draw, and the performance of the panels.

2017-10-12: Insulation woes

Fortunately, the fine particulates in this insulation board are all organic and GM-free

The last time I wrote about fitting insulation was back in May, and it feels like the job has been dragging on since then. When you look at the YouTube videos, you see time-lapses of people fitting insulation over the course of a weekend. Maybe we could have achieved that if we’d known exactly what we were doing before we started, but we didn’t, so … tough luck, I guess.

To be fair, we haven’t spent all the intervening time fitting insulation, but every weekend, pretty much, we’ve been doing part of the job, just enough to progress some other part of the job: fitting the bench bed, or the shelf above the cab.

But the main source of frustration has been the endless trips to Screwfix to buy more materials – and in particular, expanding foam. This van eats the stuff.  A quick check of my van expenditure spreadsheet reveals we have bought this many cans of expanding foam:

That’s 14 cans.

They’re 750ml each, and the packaging states the contents will expand to 35 times the original capacity. So – ignoring wastage, of which there has been a fair amount – I calculate we’ve sprayed over 26 litres of foam into the cracks and crevices of this van.

Anyway, we’re almost done.

Insulation is one of the most controversial topics on the van conversion forums, with many a certainty bandied around. Our original plan was to use rigid board for the bulk of the insulation, with expanding foam to fill the gaps. I still think that was a pretty solid plan, but I wish I’d known at the time we’d by spraying this much of the stuff.